PUSHING THE BOUNDARIES OF EPR RESPONSIBILITY FOR TEXTILES: NEW REPORT FROM THE ELLEN MACARTHUR FOUNDATION
“Policy alone cannot solve the problem of textile waste. Voluntary business action, including the establishment of voluntary EPR schemes, are key to accelerate progress. Coordinated and compounding industry action is needed to challenge the linear economic model at its core, and to capture the opportunity to reuse and recycle textile products and materials at scale….” Ellen Macarthur Foundation WHAT IS EXTENDED PRODUCER RESPONSIBILITY AND WHY DO WE NEED TO TAKE ACTION? The latest report from the Ellen Macarthur Foundation deep dives into the issues and the impact of poor waste management, and highlights that “magic” alone cannot solve the challenges our environment faces – we need legislation (and fast) if the industry is to accelerate and enforce change. A comprehensive circular economy approach is the only solution that can match the scale of the global textile waste problem. Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) policy is a necessary part of the solution. The latest report from the Ellen Macarthur Foundation explores a common approach across national EPR systems, to maximise alignment and effectiveness, as well as the many benefits EPR can bring, beyond downstream waste management. WHAT IS EPR AND WHY DO WE NEED IT? To establish separate textile collection systems at scale, dedicated, ongoing and sufficient funding is needed to cover the net cost associated with managing all discarded textiles, not just the fraction with high reuse value. EPR is a crucial policy mechanism to deliver such funding. EPR policy places responsibility on producers for the collection, sorting and recirculation of their products when these are discarded by citizens. If designed well, EPR policy significantly improves the cost-revenue dynamics for separate collection, sorting, reuse, repair and recycling of discarded textiles. EPR also delivers transparency and traceability on global material flows, and it helps to attract capital investments in the infrastructure needed to reuse and recycle at scale. EPR Can Also Drive Innovation, As Producers Are Incentivized To Design Products With End-Of-Life Considerations In Mind. This can lead to the development of more sustainable material However, the success of EPR policy depends on several factors. First and foremost, the policy must be mandatory for all producers and cover all types of discarded textiles. This ensures a level playing field Mandatory, Fee-Based EPR Offers Four Key Benefits EPR policy places responsibility on producers for the collection, sorting and recirculation of their products when these are discarded by citizens. If designed well, EPR policy significantly improves the cost-revenue dynamics for separate collection, sorting, reuse, repair and recycling of discarded textiles. EPR also delivers transparency and traceability on global material flows, and it helps to attract capital investments in the infrastructure needed to reuse and recycle at scale. What Is Wrong With The Current System? Textile waste is a direct consequence of our linear economic system. Around the world, the vast majority of textiles (more than 80%) leak out of the system when they are discarded: they are incinerated, landfilled, or end up in the environment. Separate, dedicated textile collection systems are underdeveloped and do not capture all textiles placed on the market. In our current textile system, most business models are linear: they are based on high volumes of new products, made from virgin resources, which are often used for a short time and then thrown away. Currently, products are not always designed to last and are often hard to recycle. Separate collection is the only way to keep textiles from ending up in the waste stream or worse, the environment. But today, the economics of separate collection and sorting do not stack up. Collecting and managing discarded textiles happens at a cost (beyond textiles with high reuse value), and sorters around the world experience challenging profitability. This is a key barrier to achieving a circular economy for textiles. THE BUSINESS CASE FOR SORTERS IN EUROPE, KENYA, AND INDIA Separate collection is the only way to keep textiles from ending up in the waste stream or worse, the environment. But today, the economics of separate collection and sorting do not stack up. Collecting and managing discarded textiles happens at a cost (beyond textiles with high reuse value), and sorters around the world experience challenging profitability. This is a key barrier to achieving a circular economy for textiles. How Do We Make EPR Deliver Circular Economy Outcomes? EPR policy is a starting point and needs to evolve to deliver circular economy outcomes. Today’s EPR policy leaves opportunities untapped by focusing on downstream activities, such as recycling. EPR has the potential to drive action upstream, by encouraging circular design, extending the use phase of textile products, and addressing pollution impacts, such as microfibre leakage. To achieve a global circular economy for textiles, national EPR systems need to align around the same key objectives, while setting targets that are tailored to the national or regional context. In addition, the idea of extending EPR policy beyond national borders should be explored further, to manage textile waste where it ultimately ends up. What Can Businesses Do To Accelerate Progress? Policy alone cannot solve the problem of textile waste. Voluntary business action, including the establishment of voluntary EPR schemes, are key to accelerate progress. Coordinated and compounding industry action is needed to challenge the linear economic model at its core, and to capture the opportunity to reuse and recycle textile products and materials at scale. To accelerate progress, businesses can… Source: www.texintel.com
Better Cotton, In Collaboration With African Export-Import Bank, Joins WTO And FIFA Efforts To Scale More Sustainable Cotton Production In Africa
Better Cotton is to conduct sustainability mapping and assessments in West and Central Africa to enhance its understanding of the needs of smallholder farmers in the region and identify context-specific interventions. Funded by the African Export-Import Bank (Afreximbank), these assessments will inform ways in which targeted support can aid the production of more sustainable and regenerative cotton across Better Cotton’s programmes in Mali and Côte d’Ivoire – which engage a combined 200,000 farmers and farm workers. This collaboration between Better Cotton and Afreximbank is part of wider efforts on the continent, led by the World Trade Organization (WTO) and football governing body FIFA, which aim to support the development of the cotton-to-textile value chain in West and Central Africa and improve economic returns for the sector. In 2022, the WTO and FIFA formalised a partnership to enhance the participation of Burkina Faso, Benin, Chad and Mali – known as the Cotton Four (C4) – as well as neighbouring countries like Côte d’Ivoire, within apparel value chains. In February of this year, the pair officially launched a coalition, ‘Partenariat pour le Coton’ – of which Better Cotton is a member – to accelerate work on this front. In doing so, they issued a call for investment, emphasising that the current balance of exporting 90% cotton raw material falls short of the region’s economic potential. While raw material exports generate vital revenues, organisations active on the continent believe there is scope to bolster local processing capacities in order to boost incomes. Better Cotton’s assessments – conducted with support from its Programme Partners in Mali and Côte d’Ivoire – will connect farming communities to the WTO and FIFA’s mission to strengthen supply chains in the region. Better Cotton remains committed to Africa and continues to build upon its presence on the continent. In November 2023, the organisation launched its programme in Côte d’Ivoire and co-hosted an event in Chad to discuss opportunities to establish a programme in the country. Africa is a vibrant and exciting region for cotton production and our expansion on the continent is demonstrative of that. At the heart of our mission are cotton farmers, workers and the surrounding communities – these assessments will help optimise our efforts and pave the way for continued sustainable economic development across Mali and Côte d’Ivoire. : Alan McClay, Chief Executive Officer at Better Cotton Through initiatives like these, we are committed to supporting Africa’s smallholder farmers and the entire cotton value chain, enabling them to extract maximum value from their produce, boost value addition, attain higher levels of sustainability and improve quality, all while prioritising superior products with global market potential.” : Kanayo Awani, Executive Vice President at Intra-African Trade Bank, Afreximbank Source: www.texintel.com
TrusTrace Launches ‘Must-Read’ Playbook for the Fashion Industry : ‘Unlocking DPP : The Why, What, and How of Digital Product Passports’
Stockholm, May 2024 – TrusTrace, a global SaaS leader in supply chain traceability and compliance for fashion and retail, proudly announces the release of its third playbook, “Unlocking DPP: The Why, What, and How of Digital Product Passports.” This comprehensive guide was unveiled at the Global Fashion Summit in Copenhagen and is set to be an indispensable resource for fashion professionals navigating the complexities of the forthcoming Digital Product Passport (DPP) regulations to be enforced in the European Union between 2026-2030. Featuring insights from industry thought leaders including Marimekko, Kappahl, GS1, Textile Exchange, and GANNI, the playbook provides a holistic, step-by-step guide to understanding and implementing the DPP. It dispels common myths, outlines essential data protocols, and offers practical advice for setting up digital systems to ensure compliance. Nicolaj Reffstrup, Co-Founder of GANNI, emphasizes the importance of early preparation: “Digital Product Passports and corresponding legislation are coming for the industry – that’s something we should all be pleased about. We see it as an opportunity to heighten the level of information and transparency we offer consumers about products, but also as an opportunity to manage product data more efficiently, with the product afterlife in mind. It’s easy to see the hurdles and uncertainties, but we should all be excited about the data shift that will happen in the coming years. The quicker you prepare for compliance, the smoother the transition will be for you and your customer group. This guide is a great resource to get started on that journey and navigate the current uncertainties of legislation.” Key Insights from the Playbook Include: Shameek Ghosh, CEO and Co-Founder of TrusTrace, underscores the transformative potential of DPP: “As the industry shifts from minimal regulation to a significant surge in both the volume and intricacy of global laws, it’s clear that the potential for it to become overwhelming is palpable. The DPP is no exception, as its extensive data demands on a per-product basis will necessitate gathering and validating data that has historically been hard to access. Nevertheless, true visionaries can look beyond the immediate disruptions and challenges and recognize the potential this data holds. The possession of detailed supply chain data empowers brands to adopt a proactive stance, enabling them to maintain control rather than being caught off guard by the inevitable disruptions. DPPs serve as a critical element in constructing the data, insights, and infrastructure necessary to drive a truly circular economy, as well as unlocking novel business opportunities, but how to effectively create and implement them is not clear today. This is what we are aiming to clarify in this book.” Authored by respected journalist Brooke Roberts-Islam, the guide meticulously breaks down the complex EU legislation, explaining why the DPP is essential for achieving the EU’s net-zero greenhouse gas emissions target by 2050. The guide highlights significant data gaps and demonstrates how the DPP will address these through effective data collection and sharing. Sections of the Playbook: For more information about TrusTrace or to download the playbook, visit TrusTrace’s Website. About TrusTrace TrusTrace is a market-leading SaaS platform for supply chain traceability and compliance in fashion and retail. Trusted by top global brands, TrusTrace leverages advanced technology to provide unparalleled transparency, empowering businesses to operate sustainably and ethically.
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